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Saturday,
February 01, 2003
Getting
Ready
Howdy.
I'm one of those folks who has to work for a living, so taking 5-6
months off to walk from border to border isn't happening anytime
soon. To maintain my sanity (and my magnificent trail legs) I'm
slowly section-hiking up California. I started at the Mexican border
at the 2002 ADZPCTKO, and have made it to Idyllwild so far. I'll be
starting from there in May, headed to Mt. Whitney. Photos &
updates to come.
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Monday,
February 03, 2003
Ok,
here's the plan
I'm
basically doing two section hikes back-to-back. On May 24th, I'll
leave Idyllwild headed to Agua Dulce. My uncle has some land in
nearby Acton, so he's coming out to meet me there. I'll stock up on
grub, then he'll give me a ride to Tehachapi, from which I'll hike
up to Mt. Whitney, then bail out at King's Canyon & head home.
Many tried & true thru-hikers just read that and thought
"That's not a thru-hike - that's barely 500 miles." To
which I say "yup." I don't pretend to be a 2600 miler, but
I love the PCT and will spend 5 weeks hiking on it this summer. So
darn it, I'm gonna post a journal.
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Saturday,
March 15, 2003
Counting
Down
The
theme for this part of my hike preparation is "counting
down." I'm hiking about 25 miles each week and making some diet
changes, so I'm counting down my body weight, trying to get to 200
lbs. by May 24th. I'm also counting down my pack weight. If I
brought everything I'd like to bring, my pack would weigh over 50
lbs. with food & water. Ice axe, bear can, emergency provisions
- it really adds up fast. Now I'm sorting my gear by what will keep
me alive, what will keep me safe, and what will keep me comfortable.
A lot of the comfortable stuff may have to go. Most of all, I'm
counting down days. 60 days from tonight I'll be spending my first
night on the trail. I think about it constantly, to the point of
distraction. Hiking feeds my soul and right now my soul is growling.
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Monday,
April 21, 2003
One
month to go
I
saw my uncle this Easter weekend and gave him my back-up pack and
resupply for Agua Dulce. He'll be meeting me in Agua Dulce at the
end of my first section and take me to Tehachapi, the beginning of
hike #2. Actually handing over my first resupply is very cool - it
makes it even more real to think that in 6 weeks I'll have supplies
waiting for me 250 miles from here. Pretty cool.
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Sunday,
May 11, 2003
It's
been a while since my last entry, but I'm not on the trail yet, so
there's not much news. Everything's packed & divied up. I
decided I'll bring an umbrella (+ 1 lb.) and I've adjusted my
supplies (- 1 lb.) so my total starting weight is about 45 lbs. with
8 days food in my bear can and 4.6 liters of H2O. I'm leaving in 12
days from Cabazon now, a day beyond Idyllwild. I'll have to make up
the trail from Snow Canyon up to Fuller Ridge later this summer. My
folks live in Idyllwild, so I'll be up there a few times this
summer. I've been keeping up with everyone else's journals, trying
to calculate who I'll be meeting up with on the trail. I mentioned
earlier that I'm carrying my bear can from the start. This is seldom
(if ever) done, and I'll explain my reasoning next update.
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Sunday,
May 11, 2003
It
is required in certain areas along the trail that all food be stored
in a bear-proof container. There are bear boxes in some bear areas,
but in others you need to carry a 2-3 lb. bear can with you. Some
people do, many don't. I've decided that the following is true:
1)
After the first day's food is gone, you're basically carrying the
same weight as you would without the can. In other words, the can
adds weight, but only for the first day. After that, you still have
the daily load-lightening from food consumption that you would have
without the can, just one day later.
2)
I don't have to worry about animals other than bears trying to get
my food. I won't have to do a "critter hang" to protect
it.
3)
It makes a nifty seat. If I want to rest and there's nowhere to sit,
it's handy.
4)
I can empty it out and use it as a bongo drum in camp. I'm really
big on bongo drums in camp.
5)
If I get stuck in the snow I can use the lid as a shovel. With such
multi-functionality, how could I leave it behind? Coming up next:
"Ode To A Bear Can"
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Friday,
May 23, 2003
Idyllwild
Tonight
after work I'm heading to Idyllwild to start walking. I've been able
to wrap up some things at work & I have a great assistant, so I
should have a job to return to. My next post will be from the trail.
Body
weight: 198 lbs. (yes, I barely made it)
Pack:
20 lbs.
Food:
16 lbs.
Water:
10 lbs.
Outlook:
Very ready for a long walk.
-
Molasses
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Saturday,
May 24, 2003
Destination:
Ridgetop south of Mission Creek
Starting Location: Idyllwild
Today's Miles: 12.00
Trip Miles: 12.00
8:00
PM
My
parents dropped me at Cabazon at 9:30, I left the Pink Motel at
11:00. Hiking into the canyon with the windmills, the wind was at my
back, helping me up the hills. Because of a recent fire here, there
is no chaperal taller than 3-4 feet & very few of those. I
rested in the shade of a shrubbery from 1:00 to 2:00, then made it
to Whitewater Creek by 5:00. Very refreshing.
It's
been in the 90's all day & absolutely shadeless, but nice
breezes most of the day. It's 8:00 pm now & I'm beat, so that's
all for now.
-Molasses
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Sunday,
May 25, 2003
Destination:
Somewhere on the PCT
Starting Location: Ridgetop south of Mission Creek
Today's Miles: 14.00
Trip Miles: 26.00
6:20 PM
I
am completely befuddled.
Starting
with the ridge I camped on last night, I believe I have
misidentified my location & mileage. I thought I was ahead of
schedule, but have just now made camp at the "pleasant
creekside camp" which I thought I had lunch at.
It's
been a tedious, up & down, back & forth day. Had my first
confrontation with a rattlesnake today. The score so far:
Rattlesnakes 1, Molasses 0. I had to backtrack and go down a little
ravine to go around him, as he was really attached to his spot on
the trail.
SO
- early to bed, early to rise, & tomorrow I'll figure out where
I am.
-Mo
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Monday,
May 26, 2003
Destination:
Arrastre Trail Camp
Starting Location: Somewhere on the PCT
Today's Miles: 20.50
Trip Miles: 46.50
6:00 PM
I
was misfiguring, have refigured, and am now 3 miles ahead of
schedule! So far I've seen Jane, Paul, Lee, Noah, George & Matt.
Lee & I are camped here & I just started a little fire in
the fire ring. There's a spring here, so I'll camel up before I go.
It
has been a beautiful day, pretty mellow trail conditions all the
way. This is my first 20 mile day & I'm feeling pretty good. I
still have blisters heel & toe, but they're not getting any
worse. Knees, hip & back all doing fine.
I
had lunch at a beautiful pass overlooking the whole forest with
snow-capped San Gorgonio in the background. Pretty awe-inspiring.
Time
to stoke the fire...
Adios
- Mo
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Tuesday,
May 27, 2003
Destination:
Little Bear Springs
Starting Location: Arrastre Trail Camp
Today's Miles: 22.80
Trip Miles: 69.30
8:10 PM
Camped
here with Solace and Ryan. Long, good day today. Slept in and broke
camp at 6:00, walked into Big Bear by 1:30. Ordered two lunches,
then went to the fire station to shower, then down the street to the
coffee shop to check e-mail.
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Wednesday,
May 28, 2003
Destination:
almost Deep Creek Hot Spring
Starting Location: Little Bear Springs
Today's Miles: 21.00
Trip Miles: 90.30
9:45
AM at Holcomb Creek
This
valley here is beautiful. The creek is about 15 feet wide and the
water is cold and clear. Broke camp at about 6:15 this morning,
leapfrogging with Solace. Updated score: snakes=1, Molasses=1. HOO-rah!
8:00
PM
I
made it to the wooden bridge that crosses Deep Creek by 1:30 today.
Went to the creek below to get water and heard,
"Molasses!" Solace was further downstream getting water
and taking a break. Deep Creek is beautiful! Pools, falls, and
aspens. I stayed there for three hours doing repairs, laundry and
just soaking. Now I'm further up canyon at my own little beach.
There's a mule deer on the ridge watching me set up camp. I think
I'm camped at his water hole. Oh well, he can have it back tomorrow.
-Mo
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Thursday,
May 29, 2003
Destination:
Silverwood Lake
Starting Location: almost Deep Creek Hot Spring
Today's Miles: 22.30
Trip Miles: 112.60
10:00
PM
I
got to Deep Creek Hot Springs at 7:30 this morning. Solace and Ed
were there, along with 5-10 other folks who just come up to hit the
springs. I left there at 9:30 after soaking my feet and soaking up
some sun. It was blazing hot above the canyon, so I just kicked it
into cruising gear and guzzled water. I've been following Deep Creek
for two days now--it is an AMAZING place. Picture your ideal canyon
environment (Plitvice, Seven Sacred Pools in Maui) then crank up the
heat and add algae, biting black flies and rattlesnakes. I've taken
at least 50 pictures in the last 48 hours.
Last
night, coming down the canyon at 7:00 PM, I put my pole down ON a
rattlesnake. The trail is about a foot wide and TOTALLY overgrown
with knee-high grass. When I put it down it didn't feel like solid
ground--kinda spongy--and then the loudest rattle right at my feet.
I yelped and jumped, basically casting off with my poles and
vaulting up-trail. My heart was racing and I was uneasy all night.
Tonight
is different. I'm camped at a picnic site right on the water of
Silverwood Lake. It's 70 degrees with a nice breeze and I've got 13
miles to Cajon Pass and my next resupply. Tomorrow morning I can eat
breakfast at a TABLE like a HUMAN. I've been eating my gorp for
breakfast because it turns into a chocolaty glob in this heat. My
power bars are like peanut butter. I just open one end and squeeze
it like a toothpaste tube.
I'll
also get to bathe tomorrow, as long as I go in early and disguise it
as swimming. I'll also take some time to review my gear needs before
my resupply.
That's
all for now.
It's
true - life IS good.
-MO
(I passed my 100 mile mark this morning. I'm at 112 now.)
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Friday,
May 30, 2003
Destination:
Crowder Canyon
Starting Location: Silverwood Lake
Today's Miles: 17.40
Trip Miles: 130.00
7:30
PM
So
here's how today broke down:
Morning -- wonderful.
Midday -- hot but cool scenery.
Last 5½ hours -- grueling.
I
woke up just before sunrise and took several snapshots of the sun
rising over the lake. A most beautiful morning. I went for a swim
and cleaned out my pack (first trash can in days).
I
left around 8:30 and was soon at Garces Overlook, a gazebo up on a
promontory looking over Silverwood Lake. More snapshots. The
trail continued through the mountains that surround the lake.
Reminded me very much of the Verdugos where I romped as a lad.
The
area from Silverwood all the way north to the Cajon Pass, possibly
beyond, burned recently. Maybe last year, as the soil is still black
and ashy in spots. It was long and hot and unstable and dangerously
windy. I got blown off the trail - literally - twice. The trail
carries you from ridge to ridge as you descend a series of canyons.
Every time you follow a ridgeline, the wind sweeps up the wall of
the canyon and blasts you. Pretty slow going - almost 1 mph.
So
now I have about 2 miles to go in the morning to meet my folks at
Cajon Pass and pick up my resupply. Right now I'm eating Doritos and
beef jerky for dinner--YUM!
FYI: The Mo vs. snakes scoreboard has been
discontinued. There were legal issues. Suffice it to say that I'm
rattled at daily and yet I remain.
FYI
#2: Solo long-distance hiking can be wonderfully freeing, as any
start, stop, meal or camp is at my whim. But on afternoons like
today, it would be nice to look over my shoulder and say, "This
sucks, huh?"
Gonna
go watch the sunset....
--Mo
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Saturday,
May 31, 2003
Destination:
1 mile before Sharpless Ranch Road
Starting Location: Crowder Canyon
Today's Miles: 10.00
Trip Miles: 140.00
7:30
PM
The
next flat spot is 2 miles away and I believe it's already taken by
Jim, who left Cajon before me. Therefore, at 6:00 PM, I decided I
would stop at the next spot in the trail wide enough for my tent and
a passing hiker. I did this once last year and slept well, but as I
was setting up my tent I noticed kind of a tunnel through the brush
up canyon--big enough for me to walk up into.
I'm
hoping that if something as big as me comes down that hill, it
becomes more timid when it sees my tent--or if it trips over me, it
continues on and doesn't stay to explore.
That's
the kind of journal entry they find after the monster attacks in a
bad movie, so I'll write more.
Coming
into Crowder Canyon last night was a chore, leaving this morning was
quite pleasant. I definitely came in the back way and from my camp
to Cajon Pass was really pretty--a steep stone canyon with tiny
falls and pools. Then I went to Cajon Pass to meet my folks, eat and
resupply. Got there by 8:30 AM, left around 2:00 PM.
I'm
still about 15 miles ahead of schedule but I may need another light
day like this as my knees are feeling a little weary at the end of
the day. I don't want to go back to 20-mile days if it's hurting
every evening. I've got bonafide campgrounds at 13, 16, and 19 miles
tomorrow, so I'll see how it goes.
Love
to those I love, hi to everyone else (or bye).
--Mo
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Sunday,
June 01, 2003
Destination:
Guffy Campground
Starting Location: 1 mile before Sharpless Ranch Road
Today's Miles: 12.50
Trip Miles: 152.50
2:00
PM
I
broke camp at 5:00 this morning and have hiked 13 miles to the
campground here. My last water stop was about 17 miles ago (thanks
to the Trail Ratz) and I had less than a cup of water when I got
here.
There
was a couple just packing up their car when I came into camp and I
asked if they knew where there was water (there's a spring nearby,
but I wasn't sure where).
The
woman says, "Here, we're just leaving," and hands me a
cold unopened gallon of water. So now I'm lying on my mat on a
picnic table with 2½ liters in my pack and an empty 1-gal tied to
the back. It's 72 degrees with a breeze, so the sun feels nice. I've
got all my stuff--bag, tent, shirt--spread out on the table to dry
out.
It's
3 miles to Blueridge campground, 6½ to Grassy Hollow with piped
water. I may hike 3 and call it a day.
And
now it's time for Molasses' fun facts! This week: Ridgewalking!
DID
YOU KNOW?
1. When walking a ridge beneath high voltage lines,
touching the metal of your clacking poles with wet hands can be a
real shock!
IMPORTANT
SAFETY TIP:
2. It's good to tighten the strap of your hat BEFORE
starting on a windy ridge, 'cuz if it blows off and you try to grab
it, you might not need a hat anymore.
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Sunday,
June 01, 2003
Destination:
Grassy Hollow Camp
Starting Location: Guffy Campground
Today's Miles: 19.30
Trip Miles: 171.80
8:00
PM
I
am officially in Angeles National Forest, 160 miles so far. I think
my feet are finally on the mend. This is my first night of stashing
food canisters as I'm now in bear country. This reads like a
telegram STOP I'm tired, must sleep now STOP
--Mo
Oops--I
forgot to mention--I met Beaker at Guffy camp yesterday afternoon.
He's from Massachusetts. I asked if he was a Red Sox fan and he
said, "Kind of. My brother took me to a game before I
left." I told him about V and me going to Fenway for our
anniversary to see the Yankees and he lit up. "Against the
Yankees?! Those are impossible to get! THAT'S BASEBALL!" quoth
Beaker.
Anyway,
he's probably about 20. He doesn't have the guidebook and I don't
think he has a compass. Just the data book and walking feet. Happy
trails, Beaker.
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Monday,
June 02, 2003
Destination:
Little Jimmy Camp
Starting Location: Grassy Hollow Camp
Today's Miles: 13.00
Trip Miles: 184.80
6:00
PM
Little
Jimmy Camp is a split-level affair, which is a good thing as it
looks like the bears threw a party last night at the lower camp.
Both bear-proof trash cans were open when I arrived, and weekend
camper trash is everywhere down there. I
ate my dinner and stashed my bear can down there, then headed to the
upper camp which is much less used.
I
stayed in camp late this morning and made camp here pretty
early--only a 10-hour day. Summitted Mount Baden-Powell and took a
lunch break at the foot of a 1500-year-old tree. Saw some nuns
hiking the trail in their habits and a glider riding the thermals up
Mt. Baden-Powell.
Low
miles, but all in all, a pretty good day.
--Mo
P.S.
Camel Spring and Little Jimmy Spring both ROCK! Cold and fresh and
plentiful. I have relied on springs and creeks for 90 percent of my
water this time, have not found a dry one yet.
Things
to ask a nun while hiking to the summit of Mount Baden-Powell:
"Did you mean to dress like that, or did you just do it out of
habit?"
Later...9:00
PM
Section hiker John is camped below, joined about an hour ago by
Beaker. He got the guidebook and food in Wrightwood so he's doing
better.
Back
to the nuns, they were dayhiking on Mt. Baden-Powell while
vacationing in Wrightwood. They were all dressed identically and had
identical walking sticks with string-wrapped handles and little
round glasses. They were ahead of me and waited for me after
struggling with the snow a bit. They asked me to go ahead so they
could follow in my steps, so I went very slowly, kicking good flat
steps through each of the snow patches. They all 7 promised to pray
for me each night through June, and I asked for the most camera-shy
to take a picture of the rest of us, 'cause it was pretty BIZARRE!
(zzzzz)--Mo
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Tuesday,
June 03, 2003
Destination:
Sulphur Springs Camp
Starting Location:
Little Jimmy Camp
Today's Miles: 21.00
Trip Miles: 205.80
9:00
PM
Okay, I was wrong. The lower camp was safe, the upper camp got the bear.
I got up at 5:00 this morning, packed up my bedroll and tent, and went down to get my bearcan and noticed John's and Beaker's food bags still hanging. I brought my bearcan back up to my camp, had breakfast and finished packing up. I put on sunscreen, put on my pack, turned to go and there was a bear.
He's on all fours, about 50 feet from me. For the next 10 minutes or so, I clacked my poles together, did my disgruntled bear act, and threw rocks. He huffed, clacked his teeth and bluff-charged twice. (A bluff charge is when a bear that's 50 feet away lunges forward and becomes a rather larger bear 30 feet away.)
It was quite a trip. I took a couple of pictures during the standoff--I hope they come out well.
Beautiful trail day today. Little Rock Creek was like a miniature version of Deep Creek but without climbing so high on the canyon walls. Stayed in shade and creekside most of the morning. A couple of miles later found a beautiful waterfall.
I'm camped now in a dry streambed with John and Beaker. I think I'll try to keep pace with the slower of them through to Agua Dulce 'cuz I like having neighbors in bear country.
MORE FUN FACTS!
A snake is more likely to be on the high side of the trail.
That's all for now.
Mo
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Wednesday,
June 04, 2003
Destination:
Big Buck Trail Camp
Starting Location: Sulphur Springs Camp
Today's Miles: 19.40
Trip Miles: 225.20
8:00
PM
Much
drier today than any past. I hit a trickle of a spring at 9:00 this
morning, then nothing. I have one liter of water to last me 10 miles
tomorrow, so I'll try to get an early start.
I'm
camped at 5200 feet tonight, much lower than the 7450 where I saw
the bear. Still, I've got a pile of rocks in my tin cup right
outside my tent.
Hiked
alone, took a break at noon after 12 miles at a picnic spot, found
an older woman who had become separated from her Sierra Club group.
She wasn't sure where they were hiking or where they had parked, so
I asked her to stay in the shade with my gear while I looked for
them. It was at least 95 degrees and I was worried about her. I
found her group and got them reunited, then went and continued my
shade break.
Now
I'm here--and I'm tired--so hasta manana.
--Mo
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Thursday,
June 05, 2003
Destination:
Mattox Canyon
Starting Location: Big Buck Trail Camp
Today's Miles: 14.50
Trip Miles: 239.70
6:00
PM
I
had a nice walk this morning from Big Buck to Messenger Flats, about
5 miles. I was there by 8:30, had breakfast, then continued on. From
there on I was plagued with foot problems. Usually I can adapt a
remedy with bandaids, moleskin and duct tape, but today nothing
worked. My left little toe, "Pinkie" to his friends, is
swollen and sore. I'm breaking early, still one day ahead of
schedule, to let my feet rest.
In
14 miles, I'll be at my halfway point, Agua Dulce. Shower, laundry,
pizza--I'm ready.
--Molasses
(I
have walked over 220 miles from a spot that is 95 miles east of
here.)
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Saturday,
June 07, 2003
Destination:
The Saufley's
Starting Location: Mattox Canyon
Today's Miles: 14.00
Trip Miles: 253.70
6:30
AM
I
broke camp at 6:30 AM yesterday morning after taping my feet and
headed up out of Mattox Canyon toward Vasquez Rocks.
I
was following familiar tread and thought it was Beaker, who I knew
to be ahead of me by a day. Then I remembered Beaker is using poles
and I saw no pole marks, so the only other logical choice was --
SOLACE!
Sure
enough, as I came around a bend, there was Solace. "Molasses! I
knew it was you!" (I have a lopsided gait and large straw hat,
both recognizable at a great distance.) We walked and talked for a
while, having not seen each other for a week, then I let him go in
front as he is younger and faster. Because of my foot problems and
the downhill grade, he was soon out of sight.
Another
hour or so brought me to the tunnel that goes under the Antelope
Valley Freeway and there was Solace, waiting so we could walk into
town together. Very cool.
More
on Fri/Sat later....
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Saturday,
June 07, 2003
Destination:
Tehachapi, just past highway 58
Starting Location: The Saufley's
Today's Miles: 2.00
Trip Miles: 255.70
7:45
Yesterday
at 3:00 PM, I arrived at Jeff and Donna Saufley's. They have a
mobile home, an RV, and four large 6-man tents to provide a much
needed rest stop in the middle of a hot desert section. All that is
just for hikers--shower, laundry, full kitchen, TV, stereo, books,
games, the use of their cars--these are amazingly generous people.
Donna came in this morning with a basket of my laundry, took out a
pair of my socks and held them against her face, taking a deep
breath. I would have thrown them away, she made them new again.
Awesome. I called home, work, checked e-mail--wonderful to have all
the comforts of home away from home.
This
afternoon, my uncle brought out my supplies for the next 8 days and
forwarded me to Tehachapi for the start of 250-mile hike #2. We
stopped at the Roadhouse in Mojave for lunch, did some sightseeing
at Mojave airport, and now here I am. Great to rest, but great to be
on the trail again.
Hasta
manana,
Molasses
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